Friday, February 18, 2011

Stroker Kit 4G93 1.8L to 2.0L

Why Stroker Kit???

Two key characteristics differentiate stroker kits from OEM rotating assemblies.
First, and most important, the crankshaft's rod journals are physically farther from the main journals than on the original equipment. A given extension in the distance between the rod and main journals results in twice that distance in increase of piston travel.

The second key characteristic of a stroker kit versus OEM is the required changes to allow a stroked crank to 'fit'. This is accomplished in one of three ways:
▪ Location of the piston pin (and the top of the rod) within the piston, or the compression height is shortened.
▪ Length of the rod is shortened.
▪ Height of the cylinder is lengthened.

Most Custom stroked cranks also utilize a radical process they invented called a 'shrunk rod'. A proprietary process, rod shrinking evidently involves heat and pressure to compress it to a height 1/2 the distance of the stroke increase, thus bringing the piston deck height back to original.
This process allows for the use of any stock or aftermarket piston already manufactured for that particular model, without the need of a spacer plate or piston modification.
The Custom stroke process usually costs much less than purchasing a new crank assembly; it also uses OEM components, which have known properties and reliability.

Advantages of a stroked crank

A stroked crank increases displacement, and also uses leverage to make torque more easily.
An engine with a stroked crank will usually make more overall horsepower than an engine with a bore kit with the same displacement.

Disadvantages of a stroked crank
Increased stroke makes the piston travel further up and down. Since the amount of time allowed for this movement is not increased, the piston speed increases with a stroked crank (piston must move a further distance in the same amount of time). This can sometimes cause pistons to wear more quickly.
Large increases in stroke can decrease an engine's ability to perform optimally at high rpm. Engines used at sustained high rpm usually will be better with less stroke and more bore (oversquare).

Obtaining a stroked crank
Purchase a new stroked crankshaft from an aftermarket or OEM source: A typical complete stroker kit is composed of the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, piston pins, main bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings. This assembly is also called "the rotating assembly" or "the bottom end". Many different types of each of the components can be used for different applications. Crankshafts, for example, may be either of forged or of cast manufacture. Rods may consist of I-beam or H-beam rods made of various materials, from steel to titanium. Rods may be stock length (requiring the use of either shorter pistons, or taller cylinders), or shorter length (usually utilizing stock height pistons and cylinders).

APT have a stroket kit for 4G93 NA or Turbo

Mivec 1.8 Block stroker 2.0L

Mivec Runing Haltech Sprint 500

170hp 14nm torque stock block 1.8 Mivec Head and Jun Cam

Advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

APT Custom Stuff

APT Can Custom Parts For You........

Evo Custom Intake

Mira L2 Turbo

Race Fuel Tank

Duel pump Walbro for stock fuel tank

Fuel Rail

APT also do for service

*ANODIZING/COLOUR ANODIZING
*HARD ANODIZING
*PRECISION FLASH CROME/HARD CROME PLATING

Advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Monday, February 7, 2011

Build and Tuning

Build and Tuning Your Engine

Fuel System

SR20 Haltech Sprint500

PAR Billet Crank

Subaru 3.0 L Turbo

XR6 Turbo 1050hp

Mazda Protege 1.8L Turbo Haltech Sprint 500

Mazda BG 1.8L protege engine turbo

CP Pistons

PAR Rod

Evo Stock Block Turbo S256 1.3bar boost

Gen2 Engine COP

Cam Pro COP

Advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Haltech Sprint 500 Hot Stuff

Haltech Sprint 500

Why do I need a Haltech sprint 500 ECU?
A new Programmable Engine Management system is required when the engine has been modified beyond the standard specifications. Once an aftermarket exhaust, turbo, camshaft etc is added to the engine, the factory ECU will no longer be able to control the engine to its new potential.

If my car is not modified can I still use a Haltech ECU?
Certainly. If you find your car is using excessive fuel, or has flat spots throughout the Rev range a Haltech ECU will be able to make adjustments to specific area's of the factory ECU tune.
Haltech ECU's can be used on most petrol engines. 1 to 8 cylinder engines are supported. As well as 2 Rotor engines.

I am doing an engine conversion can I use a Haltech kit instead of the factory wiring harness?
Yes, This avoids the need for the messy factory wiring harness when doing an engine conversion.
From basic Platinum series Ecu with 2 x Programmable Outputs and software 16x16 fuel and ignition map,Haltech Sprint 500 can tune from small to huge number horse power.
with a small budget, a satisfactory return.....

To successfully install an Engine Management System you will need a good understanding of the ECU, as well as your engine. All ECU's come with the Haltech manual on CD, however as a first time installer it is often handy to have some guidance from your Pro Tuner Haltech along the way.

Pls visit Sprint 500 spec at http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500

Haltech Sprint 500 Ecu

Haltech Sprint 500 custom harness

Haltech Sprint 500 plug n play

Mitsubishi,Honda,Nissan and Toyota

Sprint 500 Piggy Style

Price for

1.Haltech Sprint 500 set RM3100

2.Haltech Sprint 500 install and tuning on the dyno RM4000

3.Group order 5 set over RM2800

4.Group install and tuning 5 over RM3800

For 6 and 8 cylinders pls give a call

Advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Friday, February 4, 2011

Microtech hand book and Tuning Guide

Manual Installation

Manual and Tuning Guide

Manual,Installation,Tuning,Wiring and Guideline

Microtech Manual Book

For students who want to know about tuning, we have supplied a manual installation and basic tuning, this manual has a total of 139 pages and can also be included in the CD

Including on Manual

Air/Fuel Ratio Comparison

Tune Settings – Guide

Air/Fuel Requirements Petrol

Ignition Requirements Petrol

Methanol Air/Fuel & Ignition Requirements

Feeling What An Engine Wants

Engine & Driving Characteristics

The Price For

Manual Intallation and Tuning Guide RM200

Manual Installation Guide RM50

CD Installation,Tuning Guide,Product and Guide line RM250

Pls Contact

Email: advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Nitrous Oxide (NOS)

Why would you want to put nitrous oxide injection in your car?

Because it's the easiest, most powerful and cheapest way to produce horsepower!
I get a lot of emails with questions about nitrous, "what's nitrous?", "how does it work?", "will it blow up my engine?", "how much does it cost?". The purpose of these pages is to answer questions like this, my goal is to have something here for everyone, from complete beginners to experienced nitrous heads.
The main reason that people want to put nitrous in their Miatas is that they want some extra power now and then. They don't want the high cost and complicated installation of a turbo or supercharger kit. Or they are complete power junkies like me and want the nitrous on top of the turbo!
These are all very good reasons to get a nitrous system!

"Is it complicated to install?"
A nitrous system is easy to install, you mount a bottle in the trunk, you route a small tube from the bottle to the engine compartment, you mount a few small things under the hood, you install an injector in the intake, you make a few electrical connections and you're done! That's all there's to it.

"How can this stuff make hp?"
Simplified you can see nitrous oxide as "Super air", it's just like air but with more oxygen in it. Engines produce horsepower by burning fuel, that means that the fuel (usually gasoline) reacts with the oxygen in the air. Nitrous oxide by it self doesn't give you any more hp, just more oxygen. The trick is that with more oxygen you can burn more fuel and thereby produce more hp!

"How do you use it?"
Some people think that you flip a switch and then the nitrous (and extra fuel) is flowing and you just hold on for dear life. That is not how a modern nitrous system works (or should work). The system actually contains three controls, the first one is that you have to open the valve on the bottle (usually in the morning and then you close it at night), the second one is an arming switch mounted somewhere in the cockpit. Unless that switch is on, nothing will happen under any condition. The third switch is usually mounted under the hood, next to the throttle. It's a small micro switch that closes (meaning it's on) when you push the gas pedal to the floor, it only activates when you have wide open throttle (WOT). When all these three controls/switches are "on", the nitrous and the extra fuel is injected into the engine. This makes a modern nitrous system very safe, if something isn't right (engine doesn't sound right, tires are spinning too much, the cops are approaching, ...), just release the gas pedal as you normally would and the nitrous will instantly be turned off. It can't be much simpler than that, every condition except WOT and the car will behave as if it has never even heard of nitrous, but push the load pedal to the floor and you'll have the ride of your life!

"Can the engine really handle it?"
Mazda GTX 1.8L engines are very tough, it was originally designed as a turbo charged engine and can handle a lot of hp. "But nitrous isn't the same as turbo?", No it isn't, but most of the things that makes a good turbo engine also makes it a good nitrous engine. If you want to make a career at the drag strip, you will have to make some serious engine modifications (just as if you would use a turbo), but if you want an extra kick in the back when that pesky Wira Turbo's is pestering you, the stock engine is just fine.

"Can I abuse the engine as much as I want to?"
No you can't. There are certain rules you have to follow if you want to live a happy nitrous life. The first thing you have to think about is, NEVER EVER let it run lean. A lean condition (meaning that there is not enough fuel for the available oxygen) is very destructive to an engine and especially when you're running nitrous. The temperature in the cylinder gets very high and the fuel detonates instead of burns. The probable outcome is melted pistons, burnt valves, blown head gasket, cracked head or other unpleasant things.
The next thing is, don't try to force your engine to do things it doesn't like. If you have a turbo or a supercharger or even nothing at all, it will not make much power at low rpms. Put in 5'th gear and slow down to 1000 rpm, now push the pedal to the metal and the car will start to accelerate, very slowly, because the engine doesn't produce much hp at that speed. Nitrous is completely different, as soon as you hit WOT (with the system armed) it will inject a fixed amount of nitrous and fuel. It doesn't care if the engine is at 1000 rpm or 7000 rpm, it will do the same thing. If you have the nitrous system set for 50 hp, it will add 50 hp even if the engine is at 1000 rpm. Since the system injects a fixed amount regardless of rpm, the lower the rpm, the more nitrous will burn per power stroke. At low rpm's that creates a very high cylinder pressure and can cause problems. The solution is simple, don't engage the nitrous (i.e. no WOT) at too low rpm. "How low is too low?". It depends on how much hp the nitrous is set for and which gear you are in. If you have a 50 hp setting, don't engage under 2000 rpm in 1-3 gear and not under 2500 rpm in 4-5. For a 75 hp setting increase each with 500 rpm. "This sounds dangerous!". No it isn't if you keep it in mind. If you feel that you want some extra security, it's easy to put in an rpm-switch that will block the nitrous until a certain rpm is reached.
The third thing you should think about is, don't hit it too long. It's the same thing as with turbo or supercharger systems, when they produce this wonderful power they also generate a lot of heat. Don't push the pedal to the floor and keep it there until you reach the rev limiter in 5'th. Long hard pulls generate a lot of heat and pistons and valves are sensitive to that. If you want to see how fast it goes, push it 99% (just before the nitrous engages) until it doesn't go any faster and then engage the nitrous.
One last thing, DON'T EVER engage the nitrous unless you are in gear with your foot OFF the clutch. Don't even try just to see if I'm right, your engine will reach 10000 rpm before your next heart beat and the result it NOT pleasant.
And related to that, if you are tinkering under the hood, keep the nitrous unarmed. If the engine is running and you accidentally engage it, see above. If the engine isn't running and you accidentally engage it, don't even think about starting it, even if you "hit" just for a millisecond. Unscrew your spark plugs and crank it for a long time.

APT do a lot of installation and tuning on Dyno for Turbo and NA engine,Pls contact for more information.

Price for NOS

Basic Dry Set,Toggle switch,Bottle 10 lb,Jet spray,Solenoid,Fitting and Nozzle RM2500

Basic Wet Set,Toggle switch,Bottle 10 lb,Jet spray,Solenoid,Fitting and Nozzle RM2900

Basic Dry Set,Toggle switch,Bottle 2 lb,Jet spray,Solenoid,Fitting and Nozzle RM2350

Advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Dyno Tuning

Dyno Jet with Retarder and Load

Why is Dyno Tuning such a critical part of a performance upgrade?

Performance upgrades are not inexpensive. You want measured results of your investment. But a Dyno map is much more than knowing your torque and horsepower; it tells our factory-trained technicians how efficient the engine is working. Want to MAXIMIZE your investment and run more efficiently? Then opt for the Dyno run and tune.

Choose a level of Dyno Tuning:

Dyno Run
Includes basic Dyno run with three pulls; air/fuel ratio checks
Measured results of your performance parts investment

Dyno Run and Tune
Includes basic Dyno run with three pulls; check and adjust air/fuel ratio
Run more efficiently and maximize your performance parts investment

Dyno Custom EFI Mapping
Includes custom fuel injection mapping for Haltech and Microtech; check and adjust air/fuel at every throttle position
Run at optimal performance and realize possible horsepower and torque gains

Performance shops looking for a Dyno tuning facilities please call for information and prices.

We also accept reservations on Saturday for tuning 5 cars and above

Pls Contact

Email: advancedperformancetuning@gmail.com

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Building Your Street Engine

Building Your First Engine on a Budget

If you mess around with cars, sooner or later you're going to find yourself in the position of needing to freshen an engine. It doesn't matter what kind of car it is, or how old it is, because if you're reading this magazine, chances are good that you run the equipment a little on the aggressive side. This increases the likelihood that your engine will, at some point during your ownership, be left with its tongue hanging out.

crafters can be a daunting proposition.

There's no shame in it. Everyone has to have a first time, and you're wise to approach an engine rebuild with caution. An uninformed foray into the precision-machined world of internal combustion engines can quickly result in an expensive lesson-and a pile of worthless scrap metal. We were there once too, and we're going to give you some pointers, like a dopey older brother, in the hopes that your first engine build goes more smoothly and successfully than some of our early efforts did. In fact, while preparing this story, we reconditioned an engine of our own and used it as an example of a typical basic performance build. If you're already a seasoned wrench, some of this information will seem elementary, but those preparing for their first venture into engine building should find it helpful.

APT build for you with a reasonble Price, Power and Reliable.

From Stock to Xtreme Drag Machine.......we build.